11 ways to experience Rome's food like a local
Insight Guides can help with the planning, organising and booking of your trip. Simply contact our local expert with details of the length of your trip, budget and places you would like to visit and they will plan your personalised itinerary. For inspiration browse Insight Guides ready-made Italy trips, which are fully customisable.
1. Join the city's high society for a refined Roman brunch at Ciampini
While breakfast in Rome can be a brief exercise in personal space, vying for a cappuccino and pastry at the local bar, the Roman brunch is an altogether more leisurely lesson in style. The chic, family-owned Caffè Ciampini holds court in a quiet square where any day of the week politicians and patricians, artists, activists and office workers enjoy light fare. Although it is just off the Via del Corso, Rome’s busiest street, the manicured Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina is a calm backwater.
Caffè Ciampini has a satisfying brunch/light lunch menu of salads, sandwiches and pasta dishes. Of particular excellence is the club sandwich, a refined double-layer white-bread tramezzino with eggs and cornichons. In summer, enjoy the home-made iced tea and gelati, including the superb chocolate variety. From November to February, the hot chocolate with fresh whipped cream is ideal to ward off the cold. If it is raining or too chilly, head upstairs to Caffè Ciampini’s rustic tea salon.
The best time for people-watching? Try lunch (around 1pm) or aperitivo hours (from 6pm).
2. Picnic on the Palatine hill and enjoy a lofty, romantic view of the city
Put together a picnic and head for the hill – the Palatine, where Romulus founded the city, and from where Rome’s aristocracy have long taken a lofty view. A green space with remains of numerous palaces, it has also acted as a backdrop for portraits of Grand Tour visitors to the city, and yours will not be the first picnic Prosecco cork to pop here.
The hill rises on the southern edge of the Forum and is part of the visit. From the Arch of Titus head south up the ancient Clivus Palatinus to the Vigna Barberini, the Barberini family vineyards. This was once a haunt of Romantic writers and painters for its unobstructed view of the Colosseum and the dome of the Temple of Venus.
Settle down for your picnic on the southeastern summit with views of the Circus Maximus. If you need shade, go to the Farnese Gardens in the centre of the hill where the terrace gives spectacular views of the heart of Ancient Rome. These pleasure gardens were laid out in the 16th century for the cardinal over the ruins of the Palace of Tiberius.
3. Discover the art of drinking coffee all'italiana
In Italy, coffee is an art form with many customs and traditions. Whether a creamy but quick cappuccino and cornetto (Italian croissant) at breakfast, a steamy shot of strong black espresso to recharge your batteries or a cooling caffè shakerato on a sweltering summer day, there is a coffee for every time and mood. With an emphasis on taste, il caffè is serious business, and nowhere in Rome is the rivalry for perfection stronger than at Sant’Eustachio and Tazza d’Oro, neighbours in the Pantheon area. Master the art of drinking coffee with Insight Guides' Eternal Rome for the Weekend trip.
For over 70 years, Sant’Eustachio, just behind the Pantheon, has been serving coffee to politicians, Roman residents and visitors. The Ricci family slow roasts a blend on the premises using 100% fair-trade Arabica beans, such as green-tipped Bourbon from Saint Helena, Maragogype from Ecuador or Arabica and Old Bourbon from San Cristobal in the Galapagos. The star of the line-up is their astoundingly thick gran caffè, a large and creamy espresso that is as beautiful to look at as it is good to drink. To feel like a local, order your drink at the cashier opposite the bar, take your receipt to the barista and drink your coffee as Italians do – while standing. Hold fire before you add sugar to your coffee – the baristi follow the Neapolitan tradition of mixing a creamy sugar into the coffee.
On the opposite side of the Pantheon is Tazza d’Oro. Always crowded, and chaotic at times, the cashier queue moves fast, and what you get is worth the wait. Like Sant’Eustachio, Tazza d’Oro’s reputation centres on the quality of its finely roasted coffee. For €2.50, enjoy the hallowed tradition of a granita di caffè con panna. Made with a cupful of bittersweet frozen espresso, crushed to a slushy consistency and layered with fluffy clouds of whipped cream, the drink is perfect for Rome’s hot summers or an after-dinner dessert.
Photo: Shutterstock
4. Grab a bite on the go with tasty Trastevere street food
The best way to get to know Trastevere is by walking its timeless streets with a bit of local flavour in your hand. Pizza al taglio (by the slice) is the unquestioned king of Roman street food, and there is no better neighbourhood than Trastevere for an aimless stroll with this savoury treat. Unlike the round version from the pizzeria, these are baked in long rectangular pans with almost no limit to the toppings and combinations, and are cut to the size you want.
Just off busy Piazza Trilussa, Forno la Renella is a traditional bakery serving pizza and focaccia the way they’re meant to be. Churning out a flaky, thick crust, Forno la Renella showcases the artisanal tradition of the neighbourhood’s past. South of Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, Ristorante Sisini is where the cognoscenti go to battle for some of the finest pizza al taglio in the city.
If you feel a bit pizza-ed out, go for supplì al telefono (deep-fried riceballs unique to Rome). When cooked properly, the sturdy exterior of the supplì should give way to a cushion of risotto cooked in a light tomato sauce. After one or two bites, you’ll discover the true reward – a lovely ball of mozzarella di bufala waiting in the centre. When you bite into it, the cheese should string out like a telephone cord, hence al telefono. Pizzeria Frontoni, and round-the-corner rival Ivo, battle for the title of best supplì al telefono, although Franchi has long held the title of best supplì in the entire city.
5. Cool down with traditional Roman shaved ice at Sora Mirella
In the hot summer months, those who are still left in the sticky, congested city know that the best way to cool down is with a grattachecca, a thirst-quenching concoction of shaved ice, flavoured syrups and fresh fruit. Invented in the1930s, grattachecca (‘shave the ice block’) kiosks were once a familiar sight on the street corners of Rome. Today, though some kiosks remain, few adopt the traditional hand-grating method.
One of the last authentic grattachecca kiosks is Sora Mirella, in front of the Isola Tiberina at Ponte Cestio. Open until late in the evening, the corner is always crowded with customers vying for a Monterosa (strawberry and banana syrups with a squirt of lemon and topped with fresh seasonal fruit) or a Preziosa (made with fresh raspberries, blueberries and strawberries). The combination of crunchy ice, syrups and fresh fruit is transcendental. Try some for yourself with Insight Guides' Eternal Rome for the Weekend trip.
6. Take home foodie delights, including Italian salami and cheese at Volpetti
Cheeses and pastries and breads, oh my! Volpetti is often the main reason to come to Testaccio. It is Rome’s very best salumeria, a delicatessen focusing on cured meats. Choose from more than a dozen different prosciutto like the sweet San Daniele, and more than 30 salsicce, from soft, spreadable ciauscolo tocinghiale (wild boar sausages) and capocollo (salami from Calabria).
A range of Italian cheeses includes old favourites ricotta (freshly made goat’s cheese), mozzarella and burrata as well as medieval Toma from Piedmont and pecorinosotto cenere (cheese seasoned under ash). Everything is available to sample. Bread is made daily, and staff will create the perfect panino for your picnic. Wines, oils, condiments and desserts are also available, and if ordering a takeaway, taste the alicimarinate (marinated anchovies).Volpetti will vacuum-pack truffles, sausages, cheeses and prosciutto on request.
For those wanting to sit, head around the corner to Volpetti Pìu, Volpetti’s ‘experimental fast food’ restaurant of pastas, soups, meat dishes, vegetables and desserts.
Taste Rome's best food for yourself with help from our local experts: submit a trip enquiry online now
Delicious italian cheese at street market in Rome. Photo: Shutterstock
7. Sample Romano-Jewish delicacies in the Ghetto
Il Ghetto, a small quarter between the Via Arenula and the Teatro di Marcello, is home to Europe’s oldest Jewish community. This is
a great place to find that unique hybrid, Roman-Jewish cuisine. Drawing upon the culturally diverse heritages at the foundation of Italikim (Italian area), Sephardic (Spanish) and Libyan culinary traditions, cucina romana ebraica developed its own identity, clinging to the traditions of the past and fusing them with ingredients available in Rome. The result is tempting dishes such as carciofi alla giudia (fried artichokes), baccalà fritto alla giudia (fried salt cod), and other unique kosher delicacies.
Favourite Ghetto eateries include the traditional Da Giggetto with medieval views, and more modern Ba’Ghetto, which also serves Middle Eastern Jewish specialities. The more formal Piperno requires reservations and stylish dress. Finally, the very casual Sora Margherita, hidden behind a tiny door at Piazza delle Cinque Scole, serves simple and hearty fare. Reservations and a completed membership form are required.
If you don’t have time for a meal, pop into Pasticceria Zi Boccione, a closet-sized kosher pastry shop in the heart of the Ghetto. The sisters of Zi Boccione have been rolling out cinnamon almond biscotti and mouth-watering pizza ebraica (Jewish pizza – thick bricks of sweet dough stuffed with candied fruit, almonds, pine nuts and raisins) for as long as anyone can remember.
8. Quench your thirst with a beer at the Antica Birreria Peroni
Antica Birreria Peroni is the obvious pit stop for those in need of a lager or a beer. ‘As precious as milk’ reads the motto on the wall of the birreria that serves Peroni’s Gran Riserva, Nastro Azzurro and Crystal Red. More than a century old, this is the original Peroni beer house. Though great-grandfather to and inspiration for the boutique Emporio Peroni, the Birreria’s style is strictly turn-of-the-20th century with original Art Nouveau frescoes, brass ornaments and old-fashioned wooden tables and booths.
The recommended drinks are Peroni Nastro Azzurro or the double malt Peroni Gran Riserva, which are as smooth and sweet as lemonade on a hot day. The birreria is regarded as Rome’s best place for hot dogs – there are eight different kinds with 14 variations. The Kilometre, a house speciality, is a rite of passage for the first-time guest or recently graduated student. Waiters sing and the crowd chants as you are served these whopping sausages. For those in search of more inspiring food, the menu also has a selection of typical Roman dishes, such as fried antipasti, scamorze (smoked cheese), simple pasta dishes like spaghetti alla carbonara, and grilled meats, along with beerhouse favourites like goulash, sauerkraut, and hamburgers and chips.
9. Raise a glass of fine wine in an authentic enoteca
An enoteca (wine bar) is the best place to learn about Italian wine. These distinctive neighbourhood establishments serve a wide variety of wine in mescita (by the glass), often on a rotating basis, and sometimes organise evening tastings. Two wine bars in the southern-half of the Centro Storico stand out for their decidedly Roman ethos: Il Goccetto (the Drop) on Via dei Banchi Vecchi and L’Angolo Divino (the Divine Corner), just off Campo de’ Fiori.
Beautifully decorated with floor-to-ceiling wine bottles complemented by a dark wood-beam ceiling, Il Goccetto is known for its extensive French and Italian wine selection and fabulous cheeses. Ask the owner Sergio for a sample of his tomino cheese with black truffle wrapped in leaves. It is not to be missed – and is not missed with Insight Guides' Eternal Rome for the Weekend trip.
For something quieter, L’Ango-lo Divino on a side alley behind Campo de’ Fiori is a cosy spot. The owner will help you choose from his extensive collection of high-quality wines, including Barbaresco, Amarone, Prosecco, and Tocai from Italy’s north and Sangiovese, Merlot, Nero D’avola and Primitivo from further south.
For something sophisticated, try Casa Bleve, a two-storey glass-topped courtyard with a lavish wine selection including a depth of vintages.
Looking for something sweeter? We've tracked down the best places for ice cream in Rome
Typical italian food display in front of Rome's restaurant. Photo: Shutterstock
10. Try (debatably) the best real carbonara at Da Carlone
A dish that dates back 150 years and is named after the charcoal burners who cooked it over the carbone (charcoal), spaghetti alla carbonara is an essential experience for any visitor. As with all things Roman, this dish is the subject of a much-heated debate as to whose creation reigns supreme. On a quiet, narrow Trastevere street near the Isola Tiburina, Da Carlone has been dishing up the best plate (arguably, of course) of this quintessential Roman pasta since the early 1900s. The preparation is deceptively simple: sautéed guanciale (bite-size bits of pig cheek), eggs, pasta and liberal amounts of grated pecorino romano and freshly ground black pepper. The pasta is dipped into the egg yolk at the last minute then tossed with the meat, cheese and pepper.
Remo, the Abruzzese owner, likes to amble out onto the street in his yolk-stained apron to survey the delight on his patrons’ faces as they devour plate after plate of this magical dish, though it is his wife, Bettina, who stays behind the scenes to churn out such generous heaps of perfection. And just in case you’re not convinced of the supremacy of their effort, take notice of the old charcoal storage depot right across the street. You can just imagine the old charcoal burners cooking up their lunch, and passing on their recipe to Remo’s ancestors. Make up your own mind with Insight Guides' Eternal Rome for the Weekend trip.
Other great restaurants (and more arguments) for authentic pasta include Colline Emiliane and Checchino dal 1887, both family-run.
11. Indulge at La Pergola, Rome's only three-Michelin-starred restaurant
Luxury in Rome is not hard to come by, but exclusivity is. Set apart from the buzz of the city is the Hotel Cavalieri, high on the Monte Mario hill. On its rooftop precipice, overlooking the cityscape, is La Pergola, the most sought-after restaurant in Rome.
La Pergola is the Eternal City’s only Michelin three-star restaurant and one of six in the entire country.
Chef Heinz Beck unleashes fierce imagination in his dishes of creative Italian cuisine. The signature tasting menu of seven dishes (just under €200), changes seasonally, and the grand dessert is an ultra-modern confection that has earned the epithet ‘Beckian’. The experience is both impeccable and unforgettable. Guests gaze out at the sparkling city while choosing from 29 spring and mountain waters. Waiters attend to every beck and call, and wine comes from a 60,000-label cellar.
If the restaurant is a little too exclusive but you want to enjoy the hotel’s luxury, try a designer hamburger at the Pool Bar or an afternoon of pampering at the Grand Spa. And don’t miss the artworks, including a monumental canvas by Tiepolo.
Find more from Insight Guides' Experience series:
6 ways to experience San Francisco like a local
London's top 7 food experiences
9 things to do in NYC only the locals know about
View within La Pergola restaurant. Photo: Rome Cavalieri
This blog was originally published on August 24, 2016.
Planning a trip to Rome?
Insight Guides can help with the planning, organising and booking of your trip. Simply contact our local expert with details of the length of your trip, budget and places you would like to visit and they will plan your personalised itinerary. For inspiration browse Insight Guides ready-made Italy trips, which are fully customisable.
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